4×4 Smugglers’ Route, Village of Tor, Cabús Pass

The 4×4 Smugglers’ Route from the village of Tor to the Cabús Pass by 4×4 is the most comfortable way to travel through this long mountain. It runs along a forest track, through the lands of Casa Palanca or via the Casa Sansa variant.

It is known by this name because it crosses the border and was historically used to smuggle tobacco from Andorra into Spain, where it was either tax-free or taxed less than in Spain, making it attractive for smugglers and a lucrative business.

Both mountain routes cross beautiful valleys at the foot of the Tor mountain. The highest peak is Sanfonts summit at 2,882 m, full of forests and rivers. You will enjoy stunning views and, if lucky, see wild animals roaming freely in their natural habitat and drinking from numerous natural springs.

Besides the fabulous panoramas and breathing the pure oxygen-rich mountain air, you will visit all the key points that made this mountain famous, such as Josep Montané’s cabin, where hippies once lived in magnificent high mountain meadows.

You will get to know the charming village of Tor, its history and legends guided by our local guides, which is the best way to uncover its network of great hidden secrets. We will then ascend to the Cabús Pass to enjoy the views at 2,302 m.

We offer you the following activity in Tor:

Description of the 4×4 Smugglers’ Route, village of Tor, Cabús Pass

To do our 4×4 smugglers’ route, we will board our company vehicle in the village of Alins, with capacity for 8 people plus the driver, who is a mountain guide and will explain the entire story during the journey. Although the starting point is La Pobla de Segur, we can pick you up anywhere between La Pobla de Segur and Alins. The earlier you join us, the more you will enjoy the 4×4 ride through the entire Noguera Pallaresa valley and the villages along the way, such as Gerri de la Sal, Sort, and Llavorsí.

The departure time from Pobla is 9:00 am; we will arrive at Alins at 10:00 am. Again, you can board our vehicle anywhere along this route, wherever suits you best or is closest to your vacation accommodation.

Once in Alins, the adventure begins with the approach to the village of Tor through winding ravines and a narrow road parallel to the river that forms the Noguera de Tor, lasting about 35 minutes until reaching Tor.

Upon arrival, we won’t stop but continue to start the famous smugglers’ route along the forest track that connects the village with the pass. We will ascend through the lands of “Sansa,” passing Josep Montané’s cabin, also known as the hippies’ cabin, up to the Cabús Pass, where we’ll take a short break to stretch and explore the surroundings.

The next stop will be at the Cabús Pass itself to enjoy the majestic views of the Tor mountain, its labyrinthine valleys, and the neighboring country of Andorra. Thus, our 4×4 route will cross two countries: Spain and Andorra.

On the return to the 4×4 vehicle, we will descend via Jordi Ribas Sagalès track, “El Palanca,” enjoying this route while spotting grazing animals, mountain horses, and cows—the cows of Lazaro and the horses of Pablo, the heir to the Palanca estate.

We will continue to return to Tor, where this time we will stop to visit the village and its corners, where a great lunch awaits us at Casa Sisqueta, already booked with Pili.

After lunch, we can stroll again through the streets of Tor to digest the food, then return to Pobla, passing through Alins and all the villages of the Noguera Pallaresa.

Since this is a full adventure, if after passing Tor it becomes impossible to continue by vehicle on the track, we will combine the activity with hiking using snowshoes. This way, you can get close to all points of interest and relive exactly how those smugglers carried tobacco across the Spain-Andorra border.

4×4 Smugglers’ Route, village of Tor, Cabús Pass: General Information

Schedule: 9:00 am at Pobla de Segur, 10:00 am at Alins
Duration: 4 to 5 hours
Dates: Spring-Summer (other dates may be available upon request)
Distance from Alins – Cabús Pass – Alins: 38 km
Elevation gain: 1500 meters
Asphalt: 25%
Track: 75%
Price: 115 euros per person (limited-time offer)
Minimum 2 people

Includes: 4×4 vehicle, driver/mountain guide, lunch at Casa Sisqueta, binoculars, civil liability and accident insurance, photo report.
Winter option: Includes snowshoes and poles.

Casa Sisqueta Menu: Salad, grilled meats, dish of the day, local cold cuts and cheeses, drinks included.

4×4 Smugglers’ Route: Where is the village of Tor?

The village of Tor is located in the Catalan Pyrenees, within the municipality of Alins, in the Pallars Sobirà region, province of Lleida, Catalonia (Spain).

Tor lies at the most remote and isolated point of the Vall Ferrera, in the northwestern tip of the region. It is situated at the confluence of the Rabassa River and the Vall Peguera ravine, whose union forms the Noguera de Tor.

The village sits at the bottom of a valley that widens at this exact spot, protected by Roc de Sant Pere, a small mountain behind it.

Around it, imposing peaks such as the Sanfonts Peak (2,882 meters) mark the natural border between Vall Ferrera and the valleys of Andorra.

The Tor Mountain covers 2,300 hectares of virgin nature next to the border with Andorra. Close to the Andorran ski resorts, it often becomes isolated in winter due to snow and difficult access.

Location and Characteristics:

It is located about 1,650 meters above sea level.
It is close to the borders with Andorra and France, which historically made it a key point for smuggling.
It is a village with difficult access, with a mountain road often covered in snow during winter.

Tor is famous not only for its isolated landscape and rural history but also for the conflicts and mysteries surrounding it, especially the dispute over the Tor Mountain.

4×4 Smugglers’ Route: How to get to Tor

Getting to Tor is not an easy task. There is no conventional road, only a forest track that requires a 4×4 if you don’t want to risk your car on the way. As Pili from Casa Sisqueta says in the series: “To get here, you have to really want to come to Tor, it’s not a pass-through village, otherwise it would be just another one.”

To reach Tor from Spain, you must take the paved road starting from Alins heading north. This road ends just before crossing the river, where a forest track begins. The final ascent is narrow and steep, crossing a mountainous landscape typical of the area. The path follows the Camí del Pal route up to the Port de Cabús, the entrance to Andorra. The last stretch, unpaved, can be challenging for some vehicles, especially during rainy or snowy seasons.

On the opposite side, access to Tor from Andorra is through the Port de Cabús. From the Andorran village of Pal, a wide paved road extends almost 12 kilometers to the port. From there, the road becomes a forest track that descends for 7 kilometers, passing by the Josep Montané Sansa Cave, a historical site that was once also a refuge for the hippies of Tor.

4×4 Smugglers’ Route: What to see in Tor

Despite its small size, Tor preserves an important historical heritage:

Parish Church of Sant Pere.
Ruins of the Romanesque church of Sant Pere de la Força, located where a medieval castle once stood.
Chapel of Sant Ambròs de Tor, situated further north of the village.

This remote and enigmatic place, shrouded in unresolved disputes and crimes, remains an intriguing destination for adventurers and mystery lovers.

History of Tor, the cursed village

“Catalonia is 1,000 years old. Tor was already here” — reads a sign hung by someone years ago in Tor.

According to Joan Coromines, the name Tor does not come from an old variant of “tower,” but from an Iberian-Basque root with a single “r,” as suggested by the local demonym: toredà. The linguist attributes its meaning to the word “hill,” indicating that the village’s name refers to its location on elevated ground.

Between 1812 and 1927, Tor had its own town hall, but since then it became part of the municipality of Alins, in the province of Lleida. In the mid-19th century, it had a population of 78 inhabitants, but over time it decreased to barely 17 registered in 2019.

Tor, known as the “Catalan Wild West,” witnessed the rise of smuggling and served as a passage for those escaping from Spain and various conflicts in Europe.

Many Jews escaped through the Tor mountain during World War II, as well as numerous republicans fleeing Franco’s regime after the Spanish Civil War. For years, it was also the scene of confrontations between guerrillas and the Civil Guard. Its richness in forests and livestock has always been a source of pride for its inhabitants but also a constant cause of disputes. Although many coveted control, only 13 families (the 13 houses of the village) were the legitimate owners, which caused recurring conflicts over the years.

How many inhabitants does Tor have?

Tor has very few permanent inhabitants, and in winter it can be almost depopulated. Officially, the village belongs to the municipality of Alins, in the Pallars Sobirà region (Lleida, Catalonia), and does not have a fixed census of residents.

According to recent data:

In winter, there may be 1 or 2 people living there, or even none.
In summer, with the arrival of some owners and visitors, the number may increase slightly.

How many houses are there in Tor?

The village has 13 houses, but many are abandoned or only used during certain times of the year. Its isolation and harsh winter climate make the population minimal.

How large is the mountain of Tor?

The Mountain of Tor covers an area of 4,800 hectares. This vast area is located in the Catalan Pyrenees and has traditionally been a place of interest due to its forest and livestock wealth, which over the years has generated a series of conflicts and disputes over its ownership.

What happened in the village of Tor?

Tor is a small village with barely a dozen houses, surrounded by a vast mountainous territory.

Its main attraction is the Mountain of Tor, a communal land of about 2,300 hectares, coveted for its economic value, especially for activities such as livestock farming, timber exploitation, and allegedly smuggling.

The ownership of the mountain was the subject of dispute for decades among the villagers, each claiming rights over the land. Two opposing factions formed, leading to extreme tensions, threats, and violence.

Timber exploitation, tobacco smuggling, and the right of way through its paths, especially the one connecting Cabús with the road to the Pal-Arinsal ski resort (Andorra), played a key role in Tor’s economy but also in its conflicts. The condominium soon sparked tensions among neighbors, particularly between Josep Montané Baró (“Sansa”) and Jordi Ribas Segalès (“Palanca”), who had opposing visions for the mountain.

With money as the backdrop, the rivalry between the families became even fiercer, especially between Palanca and Sansa.

In July 1980, tensions exploded with a double murder that changed everything. During a struggle, bodyguards of Rubén Castañer, an opportunistic Andorran businessman trying to do business in the area, killed two young men who worked for Palanca. Apparently, Castañer was negotiating with Sansa to turn Tor into a ski resort like Pal-Arinsal in Andorra.

The turning point came in 1995 when the courts declared Sansa the sole owner of the mountain. However, his victory was short-lived: five months later, he was murdered, adding a new chapter of mystery and violence to Tor’s story.

In July 1995, Sansa was found murdered. Montané’s body was discovered in his home with clear signs of violence suggesting a brutal murder. The crime scene showed traces of a struggle, but details were scarce and evidence limited. In the small, closed village of Tor, where everyone knew each other, rumors and suspicions quickly spread, creating an atmosphere full of uncertainty and distrust.

Who killed Sansa in the Mountain of Tor?

Sansa’s murder in the Mountain of Tor remains an unsolved mystery. Despite investigations, it was never clarified who was responsible for his death. Suspicions pointed to several individuals, including local rivals and people involved in the intense conflicts over the ownership of the mountain.

It is speculated that the murder was related to family disputes and economic interests over land control.

Since Sansa’s murder, Tor’s story has attracted the attention of numerous media outlets, fueling its legend with increasingly extravagant characters. Hippies, fugitives, smugglers, and bodyguards joined the tale, all with possible links to the crime, but without a clear culprit.

The book and documentary about Tor

The truth is that Sansa had many enemies, as explained by the journalist from Lleida, Carles Porta, in his book and documentary. His death not only left an unsolved case but turned Tor into a scene of mystery, where reality seems taken from a movie.

His investigation into the murder of Josep Montané Sansa, the sole legal owner of the Mountain of Tor at the time of his death in 1995, became a benchmark in true crime.

It all began in 1997 with a report for TV3’s program 30 Minuts. Porta and his team arrived in Tor to document a historic dispute among the owners of the 13 houses. What they found exceeded any fiction: an unsolved murder, peculiar characters, and a mystery that gripped them for months. The broadcast was a success, leading to the publication of the book Tor: tretze cases i tres morts (2005), followed by the phenomenon Crims, which moved from radio to television, even helping to reopen unsolved cases.

In 2024, Porta returned to Tor after an unexpected twist in the investigation. He published a new book, Tor, foc encés, and premiered the documentary series Tor on TV3, bringing new testimonies and reviewing everything that has happened since 1995. Its impact was immediate, becoming a hit on multiple platforms.

Who owns the Mountain of Tor?

The ownership of the Mountain of Tor has been a topic of dispute for decades and remains shrouded in controversy.

Legal situation and conflicts

Traditionally, the mountain was communal property, managed by the 13 “cases” (houses) of Tor. Each house had rights over the territory.
In 1896, the 13 families of Tor registered the mountain, with its 4,800 hectares, under their name. However, the agreement included a key condition: owners had to reside continuously in the village, which in Catalan is expressed as “tenir el foc encès tot l’any” (“keep the fire burning all year round”). This requirement posed a great challenge, as winters in the area are extremely harsh, with freezing temperatures, heavy snowfalls, and almost total isolation.
In 1986, the inhabitants of Tor decided to create a co-ownership society to protect their lands from possible state expropriation, in response to the 1855 Madoz Law, which promoted the disentailment of communal properties. To regulate access to this society, statutes were established requiring permanent residence in the village. Only those who maintained their home inhabited year-round, symbolized by the fire burning in their chimneys, could be part of the owning community.
In 1995, the courts declared Sansa the sole owner of the mountain.
Five months later, in July 1995, Sansa was murdered, and the crime was never solved.
In 2012, a key ruling redefined the ownership of the Mountain of Tor. The verdict annulled the requirement for permanent residence, that is, the obligation to keep the fire burning all year. Instead, it established that ownership should rest with those who could prove descent from the founders, operating under a co-ownership regime. Since then, tension in the village has given way to a fragile calm, a kind of “cold war” where conflicts seem paused but with the constant uncertainty that, given Tor’s history, any unexpected twist could reignite disputes.